Pockets! Adding Side Seam Pockets

Who doesn't love pockets in a dress or skirt!

Pockets can easily be added to any pattern or existing garment. There are many different types of pockets. This series is all about pockets. The first pocket is a classic side seam pocket. Adding pockets are easy and I have a few tricks to help get flat laying pockets every time. This post will focus on adding a pocket to any sewing pattern.

We will look at how to install a pocket in a knit garment and a woven garment, most of the steps are the same but the pockets are prepared differently.

Here are the pockets I use. I have a separate pocket pattern for knit and woven pockets. Download the file in adobe and print at 100%. Check the 1" test square to ensure pieces are the correct size. Each pocket prints on two pages and needs to be taped together using the diamond as a reference point.

Pockets Layout.pdf

Download PDF • 146KB

Materials:

Woven

11” of 45” cotton fabric

Knit

11” of fabric

1⅝ yards of 20” knit interfacing

Pieces:

Woven

Cut 4 pocket pieces

Knit

Cut 4 pocket pieces

Cut 4 interfacing pocket pieces

Cut 4 strips of interfacing 1” X 10”

You also need the body pieces of your garment. Pockets will be added just before any side seams are sewn.

Placement:

I like to add my pockets 3” from the waist. This is somewhat a personal preference. I decided on this placement from holding garments up to my body to see what I liked. You can also measure a garment that you like the pocket placement.

Find the waistline, usually marked by a line or notch on your pattern, or hold the pattern up to your body and mark. To mark you can place a pin, make a notch, or mark with your favorite marking tool.

Construction:

1. Prepare pockets

Knit pockets: fuse pocket interfacing to pockets. Fuse 1” strips to the inside of each edge of your body pieces. Find the placement of your pocket (see above) and place the interfacing just above your placement mark.

Woven: Finish the edge of your pockets and the edge of your body pieces. Finish the edges using an overlocker, zig-zag stitch, or pink the edges or use the finishing technique of your choice.

1.From this point the knit and woven instructions are the same. Knits should be sewn with a stretch or overlocker. Be careful with the blade going around the curves or it can cut into the pocket.

2. Find your pocket placement using the placement note from above. Place your pocket piece right sides together with the body pieces.

3. Sew the pocket to the body using ¼” seam allowance or just inside serging or zigzag line. Always sew from the top to the bottom of the pocket, that way any excess is evenly pushed to the bottom. *You want to use a seam allowance smaller than your regular seam allowance; this will keep the pocket on the inside of the side seam.

4. Press your pocket bag away from the body of the garment. *This step will help keep the pocket bag to the inside once your side seam is sewn.

5. Match the side seam and pocket bag. Lay your side seams right sides together with your pocket bag pressed away from the side seam. First match the pocket bag at the top and bottom, this will ensure that pocket doesn’t gape. Pin or clip the rest of your side seam above and below the pocket. Pin or clip around the pocket bag. *Match the edges of the pocket bag even if it doesn’t quite match. The pocket might bunch a little but it won’t be seen from the outside and won’t affect the function.

6. Sew the side seam. Sew from the top to the bottom. Sew using the seam allowance in your pattern. Sew down to the top of the pocket bag, leave your needle in the fabric and pivot. Sew onto the pocket bag and around the pocket using a ¼” seam allowance. Once you come around the bottom curve of the pocket sew up to the dot. *I also hold up my hand to make sure my hand will fit in the pocket opening. Once at the dot, pivot and sew onto the body piece up until your seam allowance. *If this seam allowance is exact then the pocket bag will hang straight. Pivot again and finish sewing your side seam.

Your side seam pockets are installed. Finish your garment and enjoy those pockets!